The most difficult part of the decision was what length the axe should be. In reading around I found a variety of perspectives, from (a) the more traditional perspective that the end of the axe should be about 2 inches from the ground / about ankle height when the head is held comfortably, to (b) the more modern perspective that shorter is better.
Using the traditional perspective an axe of around 68cm-71cm seems about right.
Grant Guise from iclimb gave good reasons for both longer and shorter, and pointed me in the direction of the REI guide on How to Choose an Ice Axe. Given my intended use for the axe, a length of about 60cm-70cm seems about right.
In this youtube clip, Ed Viesturs recommends an axe of 65cm-75cm length for use on Mt Rainier, which is probably reasonably similar to the type of terrain that I would typically be on. With 6 Everest summits under his belt, I'm inclined to accept his advice!
Suburban Mountaineer has a post on choosing an ice axe and specifically on why a longer axe might be useful for traditional mountaineering. He provides a sizing chart for traditional mountaineering axes. I'm about 5'10.5", so the chart suggests an axe in the range of 62.5cm (steep, 45-67 degree slope) to 67.5cm (elevating, 24-45 degree slope).
Putting all of that together I get:
- Traditional, 68cm-71cm;
- REI guide, 60cm-70cm;
- Ed Viesturs, 65cm-75cm;
- Suburban Mountaineer, 62.5cm-67.5cm.
Given all of those perspectives I decided to go with the 68cm Ocelot Hyper Light. Lengths of 60cm and 75cm are also available.
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