More Parkaeology

In April last year I speculated about the origin of an old track I found in the Mangatepopo Valley. That post included a map showing the Mangatepopo Hut on the other side of the valley from where it is today. I have since found a map from 1926 that both confirms the existence of the old hut site and confirms my speculation about a track from that hut.

The new (old) map from the New Zealand Department of Lands and Survey shows both the old hut site and the new hut site. A track is indeed indicated as originating at the old hut and heading east towards Ngaruhoe, and it is highly likely that this is the track that we found. Pukekaikiore is in approximately the same place as the (7) beside the old hut.

Part of 1926 map of Tongariro National Park. Click for larger version.
National Library of New Zealand,http://natlib.govt.nz/records/21979457?search[page]=6&search[path]=items&search[text]=%22Tongariro+National+Park%22+map

This map also shows a number of other interesting tracks. The track passing east from the new hut, through the (8), is the approximate location of the curent track through the valley, with the dog leg south being the old Devil's Staircase.

The track heading north from the new hut is also of considerable interest. That track also still exists, zig-zagging up the side of the valley and being clearly apparent when one is on the ridge. (See, for example, this post). The more easterly of the two branches seems to mirror the route taken when we dropped off Tongariro summit in June 2012 (see that post for a map of the route taken). The route on the 1926 map also seems to head over the top of North Crater before dropping down to the Ketetahi Hot Springs. This seems an obvious route when one looks at a topo map, but I have never tried it.

Finally, the more northerly route skirts around the side of Tongariro to go direct to the Ketetahi Hot Springs. It would be interesting to see whether any trace of that route remains.

Parkaeology

On this particular day we didn’t feel like much of a climb, but wanted to at least go up the Mangatepopo Valley. We made our way part way up the new staircase and then dropped over the side back down towards the valley. Initially steep in places, the terrain soon levelled out and we picked a line across the various lava flows.

Our first view of the stone-bordered path

Heading towards the base of Pukekaikiore (on the route marked as “Cross-Country” on the map below), we stumbled across an old track. Certainly not built by the current generation of track builders, this track had been cleared of rocks, and the path was bordered with rocks. We would be able to follow the track back towards the carpark, but we decided first to follow it in the other direction, towards Ngaruhoe, to see where it led. For the most part the path was easy to follow, with only a couple of places where it was indistinct. And then the path abruptly stopped at the foot of a lava flow.

It seems that we had probably stumbled on one of the earliest tracks in the park, tracks that have long since disappeared from public consciousness (or event that of DOC staff). The gravel access road from State Highway 47 follows the same route as the original cart track. An old map (below) shows the hut on the true left of the valley, near the base of Pukekaikiore, rather than the true right as it is now. The cart track does not extend beyond the hut, but it seems reasonable to assume that the foot track from the hut continued up the true left of the valley. At some point the foot track may have split into two directions, with one arm aiming for the saddle between Ngaruhoe and Tongariro, and the other for the saddle between Ngaruhoe and Pukekaikiore.

A Mead and W Mead, "Part of Tongariro National Park in the vicinty of Whakapapa Cottage", National Library of New Zealand. Complete map available online at http://natlib.govt.nz/records/21977887.

In 1954 Ngaruhoe erupted several times. The map below shows lava flows mapped by Fiona Sanders as part of her thesis. The GPS trace of the stone-bordered path is indicated. The terminal end of the path is very close to the indicated lava flow from 30 June 1954.

Source: Fiona Sanders, Rheology and Flow Emplacement Processes of the 1954 Lavas, Mount Ngauruhoe, thesis, University of Waikato, 2010. Available online at http://researchcommons.waikato.ac.nz/handle/10289/4398.

On the basis of this map, it seems reasonable to assume that the 1954 eruptions rendered existing tracks unusable for a considerable period of time. Lava would remain hot, and the prospect of fresh lava eruptions would deter people from re-establishing tracks. For those still intent on gaining access to Tongariro, it would make sense to establish one or more tracks on the other side of the valley, in the general position of the current track. Another track also exists atop the ridge above the Mangatepopo Stream.

Waihohonu Hut

A quick jog into Waihohonu Hut and back to break up a long car journey. This trail has been written about before - and with nothing of particular note I shall just post a few photos.

Pukeonake Recce

Roughly two-thirds the way along the Mangatepopo access road is a benign-looking mound that appears as if it would be a quick and easy walk to the top. Running low on daylight it seemed like the perfect option for a quick leg stretch. Even better, the topo map indicated that there was a trig at the top.

It had been raining all day, and more rain threatened, so we put on full wet weather gear. It was also only 4 degrees, so buff (as neck gaiter), beanie, and ski gloves were also in order. From the rough carpark there is an easy walk along the old, partially overgrown, and eroded 4WD track.

After a steady and easy walk for about 1km, we rounded the corner and... what an incredible view opened up in front of us: it was like half the mountain had fallen away! Instead of a conical mound, the whole centre had been eroded away into a large crescent shape. The obvious way forward was along a twisting dry stream bed that led towards a vertical face, and on our left was a large scree slope.

Part way up the stream bed we decided that the better option was to climb the slope. We started up the slope, the weather started to close in, and the light levels were fading. The top of the crescent was tantalisingly close, but the better option was to go back. We ran down the scree slope, and then walked back down the 4WD track to the cars.

The trig, if it exists, still beckons. And now that we know what Pukeonake is actually like we have a plan for next time!

The unassuming mound of Pukeonake from the road.
The carparking area is on the outside of the
bend in the road, and the 4WD track heads from
there around to the right hand side of Pukeonake.

The view up the dry stream bed towards the
vertical wall in the distance. We scrambled up
the slope to the left.

Historic Waihohonu

Another trot in to Waihohonu Hut, this time with Heather, and this time the extra little diversion to the Historic Waihohonu Hut. We made it back to the carpark about 6pm, just as the last rays of the sun were shining on the flank of Ruapehu.

The red of the hut emerging from the trees.

Historic Waihohonu Hut

Altitude 3750 feet!

The historic fireplace with relics and old photos on the wall.

The last rays of sun light up the flank of Ruapehu.

Waihohonu

Cliffs across from the new Waihohonu Hut

Track bordered with heather

Although I have driven the Desert Rd many times, I had never previously stopped to do the track into the Waihohonu Hut. Situated almost exactly in the middle of my drive, it was the perfect way to break up a long day in the car.

The views were good, and I particularly like the heather beside the track at this time of year. The two things that struck me the most about the track were how sandy it is, and how flat it is. There are a few undulations, but very few. Overall, it is a very slight climb from the carpark to the hut, and most of it is not noticeable.

The new Waihohonu Hut is a bit of a shock - not at all like normal New Zealand huts. No wonder DOC is closing other huts if it is spending that much on huts that it deems to be money makers!

The older Waihohonu Hut nestled in the trees across
the valley.

The uber-flash new Waihohonu Hut, looking for all
the world like a chalet.

Still, the new hut has been situated to make the best of the views, and it must be spectacular in winter when there is snow on the mountains.

A washout on the track - this must look great during
heavy rain! The track is to the right, and DOC has
added a bypass through the scrub further to the
right of that.

Steam cloud from Te Maari

More photos on flickr.

Ketetahi and Te Maari

A quick trip up to Ketetahi Hut to see the damage from the recent Te Maari eruption. I was hoping to head right on to the tops and maybe around the back of Blue Lake towards Te Maari itself, but slow traffic and other commitments meant that we ran out of time and just went as far as the damaged hut.

The large plume of steam from the Te Maari vents was easily visible from the carpark, but as we climbed above the bushline it became evident that there was increased thermal activity all over the mountain. Steam was pouring out of the Te Maari vents, there was significantly more steam from Ketetahi than normal, and exposed hillsides with sulphur deposits were also steaming. Perhaps the cooler air temperature made the steam more obvious, but it seemed a lot more than that. Whatever heat source is responsible for the Te Maari eruption must surely be responsible for the general increase in activity. Perhaps there will be more eruptions, or perhaps the mountain will just continue to steam away for months to come.

Track damage: rocks strewn across the track by
a lahar.

Mud from the lahar between the trees.

Although there had been snow overnight, the snow was not nearly as low as the Metservice forecast (1200m) and the snowline was about at the hut (just under 1500m). We were pleased that other aspects of the forecast were wrong, as instead of rain it was pleasantly dry for most of the way up. It wasn't until we were about 20 minutes from the hut that it started to rain and got quite cold.

Impact crater with boulder inside.

Impact crater cordoned off.

We stopped at the hut to put on dry tops, have a bite to eat, and survey the damage from the eruption. One bunkroom had serious damage from a boulder that had come through the roof, and there are big "bites" taken out of the roof in two other places. DOC has removed the bunks from the central room so that people can't sleep there anymore, but it still provides a welcome shelter.

Ketetahi Hut from a distance.

Ketetahi Hut showing damage.

Hole in the roof.

Damage at the back of the hut.

Dead vegetation in the grey ash from the eruption.

Ketetahi Stream - this was just tepid to the touch.

DOC declared a 2km "volcanic hazard zone" around the Te Maari vents and warned that:

• You are still at risk from further volcanic eruptions if you are within the 2 kilometre Te Maari Volcanic Hazard Zone.
• You enter the Te Maari Volcanic Hazard Zone at your own risk.
• You should move quickly through this Volcanic Hazard zone.
• Be aware of the potential of renewed volcanic activity.
• The main danger will be from flying rocks.

DOC also published the map below showing the recommended direction of travel in the event of an eruption.

Postscript

Eight days after this trip, just before 1:30pm on Wednesday 21 November 2012, Te Maari did erupt again. A much less significant eruption than previous, with no rocks ejected and no significant ash. But it was enough for DOC to close the track again.

Eruption

A new vent on Tongariro
www.stuff.co.nz/Tongariro-eruption

The problem with having favourite tracks (or routes) on a volcano is that sometimes volcanoes... erupt.

On Tuesday 7 August I was to be driving up the North Island, via the Desert Rd. As I headed off for a shower that morning I decided to quickly check the stuff news website on my phone. With some disbelief I read the lead headline "Tongariro Erupts", and with some dismay read that roads in the central North Island were closed. Daylight meant that the authorities could make a proper visual assessment of the situation and before I left home the Desert Rd was back open.

I was hopeful I might get to see the eruption site, but there was ground level cloud shrouding Tongariro and it was impossible to see anything.

There was, however very clear evidence of the ash. Driving down the hill towards Rangipo the road and surroundings suddenly became very grey and dusty. Initially I thought that perhaps there had just been a lot of logging activity to stir up dust, but quickly realised that it was a lot more than just dust. A layer of ash covered everything; road, trees, blackberry at the side, and was being thrown up in a cloud by the cars. I snapped a couple of photos, and took another one a little further down the road as a comparison - it was only then that the true extent of the ash became apparent.

Ash at the intersection of SH1 and Kaimanawa Rd	Clear again...
Location map

In subsequent days official photos became available: a thick layer of ash, something of a mud flow, parts of the Tongariro Crossing track destroyed by boulders, and Ketetahi Hut destroyed. The inevitable result of this is that DOC has closed the tracks on Tongariro while we wait to see whether the mountain will settle down again or whether this is the start of a new eruptive sequence.

Damage outside Ketetahi Hut www.stuff.co.nz/Tongariro-eruption

Damage to the track near Ketetahi Hut www.stuff.co.nz/Tongariro-eruption

Links:

• GNS Tongariro page

Missed Summit

Another trip to Tongariro today, with the intent of heading up to the summit and back. We had hoped for a good covering of snow, but instead found that the mountain was almost devoid of snow. Assumed we wouldn't be needing the walking poles and ice axe, so removed them from my pack and off we went.

Icy ground around the crater rim.

To cut a long story short, in exposed places the wind was quite cold. Up on the crater rim it was also very strong and we put all our gear on - hats, gloves, water- and wind-proof jacket and over-trousers. Made our way around to the critical shaded slope and found that it was iced up. The foot track was something of a ledge, and for what seemed like about half the way it was ok, but then it became narrower, more slippery, and dangerous. With no ice axe it was time to turn back.

The decision point: left across the shaded slope
(tried that, turned back); straight ahead over the
knob; right to the North Crater saddle and back via
the west face and Hardman's Ridge; or just turn
around and go back?

Back off the shaded slope we noticed that the wind had picked up and we were getting cold. Hunker down behind a boulder while we decided what to do. One option was to head up and over the knob and continue on to the summit. This looked feasible but we were cold and coming back around into the wind didn't seem like much fun. A second option was to just turn back into the wind and head back down into South Crater. I wasn't too keen on this, as again it meant perhaps 30 minutes into the wind, and a steep and slightly icy descent into the crater.

The track on the shaded slope, at about the point
that we turned around.

The summit is just up there! But the wind was roaring...

My preference was to go to the right around the knob to the saddle with North Crater, and from there head back to the ridge above the Mangatepopo Valley (Hardman's Ridge). I went ahead and checked that the terrain was free of ice and then we set off on this option. Taking care to stay high and avoid the steep sided gullies we made good progress. Much to Heather's surprise we did indeed pick up a clear but unmarked track up on the ridge. We followed this down the valley for a while and then started looking for the way down. After a couple of false starts we found where the track down came out down by the stream. We started off cross-country down hill and then happened across the downhill track. From there it was easy travel back to the main tourist track and back to the car.

Heather had initially been a little reticent when I had suggested the off-track travel back to the car. But the terrain was good, route-finding was easy, some fun running on soft scree and moss, and for the most part we were out of the cold wind. The air temperature was about 2 degrees celsius, with winds of perhaps 50-60km/h and higher on the crater rim. The resulting wind chill took the temperature well below zero, soan option that took us out of the wind made for a much morre comfortable and enjoyable day.

Map

Mangatepopo Valley

A quick(ish) run 5km up the Mangatepopo Valley and then back to the carpark. Would have been nice to go further, but this was all that was realistically possible. And in any event it's always a great way to break up a car journey!

Ketetahi Hut

Approaching Ketetahi Hut from below

A quick trip up to just beyond Ketetahi Hut to meet up with Heather and two new Canadian friends who had been doing the Tongariro Crossing and a couple of side trips. It took me 1:09:15 for the 6.2km and 682m climb to Ketetahi Hut, and then I continued on another 1.12km and 111m climb to when I saw Heather and Allyson.

Heather and Allyson approach.

The view north from just above the bush line.

I took a few photos and then it was back down to the hut for a bite to eat and then back down the mountain. A few more stops for photos along the way, including a series of photos of the two girls at a waterfall just a short distance from the carpark. After we finished it was time for a drive north, stopping in at Kerosene Creek for a soak in the lovely thermal water and then on to Rotorua to have Thai for dinner.